Engine installation - prep

Debbie did the wrapping of the boat again for engine ding prevention. She bubble wrapped the whole area and put carpet padding on the steps. Hoping this time nothing happens. She put extra layers of bubble wrap in some vulnerable places also. Time consuming project but worth it if it stops one ding.
 We then took all the windows off the dodger and the separator piece. That is after Debbie washed the dodger parts and did the separator. Lots of bird droppings etc. No time for cleaning. Our noses have been in bilge work.
We un-screwed it and walked it up forward. It is a bit heavy with the solar panel on it and a bit awkward.
Bungeed it down and job well done! It took several hours to do it all.








Starting battery - shelf

The starting battery made it back into it’s spot. We cut the shelf down and removed two pieces of wood I had installed to make the shelf larger. We do not use the extra room the larger shelf gives us and we have come to like the LifeLine AGM battery inside the black battery box. It keeps it neat and tidy and the box can be mounted to the shelf. This gives us the opportunity to put sound insulation on all sides of the compartment. If the battery were not in a box it would need to be mounted against the side of the compartment. In turn this would make it difficult to insulate the area by the battery. To keep the box we needed to drop the shelf back down over an inch. That will give us the head room to add insulation on the hatch cover also. Technically an AGM battery can be mounted on its side without a box.
So we ran the black 4/0 ground cable to the negative buss bar by the batteries. It was going to the engine ground on the Perkins but we wanted to get it out of the engine compartment if we could and we did. It’s loss is 20 percent greater with the heat of the engine compartment. Also this may allow us to monitor the starting battery with the Link 2000.
We are awaiting our new selector switch for further installation.
Also we did not screw the shelf in or secure the battery in case Phil needs access below while installing the engine.
Also got the trickle charger hooked up again.


Navigation classes

Marina Cortez, San Diego, CA 1\13\2011

While at the Sunroad Boat Show we saw a little remote controlled tug that was a hit with the kids, me too. There was a coastie controlling it. Well after all it was a coastie thing and a Coast Guard Auxiliary (CGA) sandiegocgaux.org thing.
 While there we asked about navigation classes. They offer GPS classes. We were thinking along the lines of paper charts.  Get it (along the lines) oh well guess it not a pun. So they (CGA) do not offer any paper chart type of navigation. Guess we could go back to the Mission Bay Aquatic Center  (mbaquaticcenter.comwhere Debbie and I took sailing classes. They taught us basic navigation. So we would like to remember how to chart a course and take bearings etc. on paper.



Vessels sink?

We are exploring the possibility replacing our head sink with a vessel sink.


 We would like a bigger sink and there is little room to expand the sink size in the counter top. Not to say we could not do that but we would be more limited.

 We would like something a little more eye pleasing than the normal SS ink.

 With a vessels sink there seem to be some nice options for faucets also.

 When we were at the boat show we were on a large motor boat with a vessel sink. It was impressive. We then went on an Island packet 44’ and the sinks in the heads were very small. OK sail versus power, healing verses none.

We do now have all Kohler home shower equipment in the boat that works fine.
We just installed a home Delta Touch faucet in the galley that is fun and really cool.
So why not a nice sink in the head??
By removing the existing sink the and making the hole rounder then a vessels sink would fit down into the hole a bit. This would keep the height down and it could fit under the vanity. If not then we would have to deal with covering the hole that the original sink is in. This can all be done. No problem, just another easy install :) ! 

Possible why not’s:

Could get hut in a sea way by bumping into it?
Water sloshing out in a sea way?
Use more water?


Healing problems?

There are some nice vessels sinks out there. They even have the SS vessels sink. I think though we would go with an artsy one. Cannot be a heavy granite though.
Any way here is a random selection of pics of vessels sinks.















Door Behind Toilet

 The door behind the toilet is now free from the water based varnish. At least free enough. With a good sanding and cleaning it will be ready for its first coat of varnish. Slow going but any project while the new engine is being installed is just a side project. Not much time for anything else.



Painted Control panel

Debbie was able to prep and get a coat of Interlux white paint on the engine control panel.
We wanted to get at least one coat on before the engine panel goes in.  It would have been nice to get it all painted before the panel goes in but it was just not possible. As it is we are burned out form working all and every weekend and some nights after work. Also a day or so I took off work. Got what could do done and the needed important things done. This can be painted later, just a bit more difficult.
There may be an issue with the spot the key goes in and the Plexiglas doors. We'll just need to deal with it when we get to that spot of the installation.








Sunroad Boat Show - new engine

We had to go to the Boat show at San Diego Sunroad Boat Show (bigbayboatshow.com) to see our new motor that is being displayed by Phil of San Diego Beta marine (the Marine Man).  Phil left Debbie and I free tickets at will call and we thought that was a nice gesture.  While at his booth we got to meet his wife Sarah too.
 Sarah gave me some herbal soap or I should say she gave Debbie some herbal soap to give to me because I was busy oogling over the motor.



 Beta factory installed the second alternator. In doing so they moved the water pump which has the impeller. It now on the starboard side and is not it seems as easy to get at as it way in the front of the motor. It looks like the stop cable is running by the impeller housing too. The impeller cover is under the black air filter cover towards the front. The impeller is facing the back of the motor. We shall see after it is installed. May not be a big thing. It would seem to be easy to reach from the Freeport satee side though.




Also moved is the oil extraction pump. That’s right Beta installs a hand pump that connects to the bottom of the oil pan for easy removal of the engine oil for oil changes. That I think will not be an issue unless it is too close to the dinette table. It was on the port forward side of the motor where the second alternator is now. They did put a beefy motor mount with a beefy alternator mount on that side.
Both alternators are 100 amp. You need to get a bigger motor to get a bigger alternator.
Phil will need to install some fittings for the hot water heater hoses.
All in all it looks nice and we are excited.










Paint in the bilge - oops

 Of course we had to put another coat of paint in the bilge. As I am a sloppy painter and it messed me up. We have two cans of Interluk paint. OK you know where this is going. One can we used in the anchor locker etc and it is a hard good paint. It is the same white shade of color as the Interlux bilge paint. It does not cover as well or cover grease as well. Yep I say through the spilled paint on the side of the can what looked like (ilge) the paint was covering what I thought was a B. Must have been single I saw???  Yep I do not know how to spell bilge either! So I do not know what it is but Debbie was about to paint the electrical panel and asked what paint I was using. I showed her and of course it was the wrong stuff. I do think no harm no foul. I used it (wrong paint) last time I put a coat on and Debbie had already put the first two coats on using the Bilge Coat and it seems fine. Besides it not covering that well there is not a problem as it is the same kind. Not an oil paint and then a water paint problem. So after the engine is installed it will need some touching up and I will make sure I use the right paint or Debbie will do it and then we know it’s right as she takes the time to look. In my defense the cans are the same color (red labeling and white) and same manufacturer. Close in size also :). 
This pick says Gray but we got white





Under sink Insulation

 Saturday we were back in the bilge. At home we made a piece of plywood for the underside of the sink. We removed all the hoses from the cabinet next to the sink that were running up high to the counter top. The area had been cut out quite a bit for hoses. We had a couple hoses and a T PVC fitting with a couple smaller vent hose coming off it behind the cabinet where we keep the pans. That is next to the sink on the starboard side of the sink. Also towards the sink there is the sink drain hose, the engine exhaust hose, the bilge pump hose and the PSS shaft seal hose. We also added another bilge pump hose.

 The new ply wood covers those holes left by the old hoses. We also made the sink hose a bit smaller.
Before with the Perkins in there we were getting exhaust fumes and noise and diesel oil smells from under the sink are.  This work will take care of that issue.

 The plywood was pre-drilled and counter sunk at home. At the boat we had to trim it and cut out the are for the hoses we still wanted to use and then we used a router on the edges for chafe protection of the hoses.
 Debbie used the plywood we finished (the new ½ inch piece) to cut the new sound insulation.

 Debbie mounted the ply wood to the underside of the cabinet by first drilling a hole into the cabinet underside plywood using an existing hole which we had pre-drilled in the new ply wood. Then she screwed in a screw into the underside of the cabinet to hold the new plywood in place. She then drilled all the rest of the holes using the same method. There were about eight holes for screws or maybe ten.

 This piece of plywood goes into an awkward place and with the sink drain hose in the way it makes it even harder. But it is way easier than if the water muffler is there or the engine as that is where she was working from. If the engine were there and water muffler then it would be damn near impossible. So we used extra fasteners so it will not come down in many years of boat use.

 I taped the sound insulation (I know the easy job again, how do I work this you ask J ).

 Debbie then sprayed glue on the sound insulation and then on the plywood she had screwed into place. Then she slid in the insulation from the starboard side. It was not that easy as the insulation would touch and get stuck but she managed to get it in there nicely.
After the  new exhaust hose and water muffler are installed we will put more sound insulation this area on the top side of the bottom of the cabinet and around the hoses going under the sink.








Faucet check valve

 We decided to put a check valve in the faucet plumbing. We were talking to our dock mate Heinze who works in the Industrial kitchen equipment industry and he said they are used to keep the cold and hot water from mixing. That the hot water is denser and will mix with the cold if two faucets are  in the same line and close to each other. We could probable use just one on the hot side or maybe even none as the galley and head sink are not that close. We do use them at the same time so it could be an issue. I put one in because I lost the other and it may be on the cold side so looks like a re-do. No big deals here.


Dumpster drill

This is the drill Heinze a dock mate gave me. He got it from the dumpster.  Works good. Debbie gave me the 90 deg drill head and I am using them both to grind off the extra epoxy that was put on the propane locker to make radiuses for ease of fiber glassing. The only drill we had in the garage was a old battery operated one, the battery would not last long.


Beta Engine installation

Looks like our new Beta engine will begin the installation process  on February 3rd or 4th.

80 amp fuse for the T buss bar

 Took a road trip to WM and picked up the 80 amp fuse for the T buss bar. It was the last one they had. No other chandlery’s around San Diego has any or carries any. Got ours now  so some day we will get another for the head and a spare.
We are going to install a T fuse block in the head; we already have bought it but not enough time to install it. Everything is working fine so it is a do later thing.  We want to get rid of the glass fuses and make them more accessible than they are right now. So it can wait.



Engine room clean up - More screws

Went to the fastener shop and picked up 50 more screws and fender washers for the engine room insulation:

14 x 1 ½ SSPH screws
And
¼ x 1 ¼ Fender washers for the engine room insulation.

After counting them out in my head I think if we use the m on the engine room hatches then this will be enough. We still have not finished the engine room and still we need to do the starting batter compartment so fifty out to do it.
That makes a total of 100 of them! 


Food storage light - lower

The food storage light we got wired up to the T fuse block at the nav station. The wires are not secured yet.
 I went and turned it on and it did not go on. So I started to trouble shoot the wiring. Simple stuff, then remembered we need a 80 amp fuse for the T fuse block.  I had stolen it for the new buss at the nav station.


Engine room clean up -vent hose

Went to HD and picked up a 3” PVC pipe joiner. Then went to ME and tried it with their 3” black vent hose. The hose slipped over it nice. So we picked up a couple SS hose clamps to fit. We will try this on one dorad vent hose to the engine room to see if it will work out. We would like to replace them, the sections that go into the engine room.
 This could be an easy inexpensive solution.


Galley faucet working!

The faucet plumbing went well. I stopped at HD and picked up a couple faucet kits for screwing the 3/8 pipe thread fitting to the ½ inch plumbing boat fitting.











We started out using one check valve and then plumbed to the boat plumbing.
The other line without the check valve. We called Delta and see if it is needed.Their support did not really have a good answer. It could be you would get warm when you want cold?
At any rate we will see how it goes and if the fittings are leaking then what the heck we will install the check valve assembly if not and not problems then forget them.
Delta Support 800 345 3358

We did not see any difference so we went without any check valves.





 This seemed to work well so far as we do not see any leaks.
The hook up under the sink worked well.  The hook up in in the lower cabinet under the sink.  It works well there as it out of the way of the exhaust hose loop and fairly easy to get at. We needed to cut the boat plumbing shorter to get to that point. We did not install the check valves that come with the Delta One Touch faucet.

We wanted the fitting to be accessible in case we needed to fix a leak etc.
This shows the 3/8 to 1/2 inch adapters (chrome) and the half inch male connectors (boat plumbing hardware).