One step -Edison

 As it is dingy time we ordered up an Edison step from "Go To Marine".
 This step is a saftey item for us and a convience. It will be nice at anhorage ifthe boat is pitching. With htis step getting from or to the dingy willbe much sfer. The stern steps would not work well in a pitcing situation we belive.
 Aslso at a dock with out and stairs this will be a good means of getting on and off the boat. We have a folding step stoot but it is a reah with the foot to get off.

Headboard done

Debbie cut off the from on the end of the bed headboard. Then she trimmed and stapled the reaming material around the end. We put it back up and wa-la the cabinet door opens real wide now.

Removed old depth sounder

Jetson me.
 The old original depth sounder was attached to the hull. It has been a way long tyime since it ever worked. The PO installed a different one which was old but did work. It was however in the middle of the bulkhead and tired looking. We did not like looking at it.

We used a chisel and glass hammer to remove it.

 This one was in the spot where we install the new Garmin one. It is not a through the hull type ut a attached to the hull type. It will not tell you the tempter of the water but will tell us how deep it is.

Second coat of clear - cap rail

 We got the second coat of clear Cetal on the cap rail starbird side. Two more to go.

Purchased last grate for the 12000 unit. - return air.

W purchased the last grate for the 12000 unit. This is the return.

We bought this at A to Z marine.

This grate needs to be 140 square inches or more. Because of the location and size of the are we chose this grate.
16x9 which is about 150 square inches.

Whale IC bilge pump got re-wired

 The Whale IC bilge pump got re-wired and is working. It is still kicking the hose around down in the bilge because there is no way to screw down the strainer. We bought a piece of teak zinc for this purpose. We will attach the zinc to the hose and see if it will hold down the strainer so it does not move around.

Spectra water maker work

 We mae some good progress on the Spectra water maker. We had purchased some rubber for backing of the pump module as recommended by Dailey Water Markers.

Drilled two holes on the inside towards niddle.

We cut it to size and then drilled two extra holes in the modal as recommended by Dailey. Then we drilled the mounting hole into the rubber and cleaned it all up.

 We applied 3M UV 4000 to the back of the module to hold the rubber in place for easo of mounting.
 Then after it set up we mounted the module in the cabinet.

We even connected the fresh water rinse hose to the module.
 The ½ hose from the ½ through hull we had run to the module before. To be sure of the setup we called Spectra support
(415) 526-2780  Tech Support:
and found out that the 1/2 hose is too small. They wnt a 5/8, so we will re-run with a 5/8 hose (15').
 We also bought more hose from Dialey for the presuer guage aand the test facuit. Could be we will install another faucit at the sink for testing the wter maker water.

Purchased our new dingy and outboard motor

 We just purchased our new dingy and outboard motor. We purchased the setup from The Dingy Doctor.
This one is gray, we got white.
 We bought a White Achilies LSI 310.
 That means it is 10' 2" long. It has a blow up floor.
 We got the blow up floor because we have a 36' sail boat and do not want to block hatches or have a large objet on our coach roof when it is not inflated for storage. There is just a ton of reasons for every floor it seams but this is the one we like for our needs.
 We also purchased a Honda 9.9 outboard motor. Model BF 9.9 DK 3
Along with that we Danard dingy wheels.
Achilies seat pad and cover.
Lifting harness 3 point boat 2 pick point
Pad eyes.
Stern LED light.
And we are having it all installed and it will be ready for pick up this Saterday.We will walk over to the boat ramp at Shelter Island and drive it home! Not often we get to skip the work and just enjoy the outcome :).
 We have not decide on a cover yet. It seems it would be of limited use for us. If we keep it on the davits over night, most likely, it would not be put on as we would be using it. If we do not use it or  spell we will de-flate it and stor it. The cover would need storing also. We have not ruled it out and we may still go for it.
 Chaps are what we want. Debbie will be making these when there is time aviable.
 We opted to not install the dingy wheels or make the harness etc as we have pleanty of other projetc going.
 We will be making a trip over to Benchmark welding to see if we can get them to make an outboard moor bracket on our setern rail. We tried the Edison one just in case it might work but we have an up stanchion at that spot and a curved stern rail at the spot for the motor.

Sold the Jeep Wrangler - movinh on

9\26\2012 San Diego, CA 

This last Sunday we sold our Jeep Wrangler. It was my car and it served me well for eleven years. Sorry to see it go as it was a fun car to drive. On to the next thing in life though. It went to a good home, a young guy and his wife in Cornado Cal.

Mermaid 1200 btu work - pump,grill tec

 The 1200 btu ac unit got some work done on it. We defined a place the water pump and strainer and through hull.
We mounted the pump ad then drilled a hole through the rib (scary thing) for the coling water to be pumped to the AC unit.

Debbie made up some wiring for the breaker.
 Debbie then enlarged some holes in the gng box we got at home Depot. This will serve as our breaker box for the Blue Seas 20 amp breaker. We picked up some 3 1\2 inch screws at West Marine for the mounting.
 We purchased the last supply grill, a teak 6x8 grill. This will go on the salon bench facing aft. It supplies the Mermaids requirement for at leat one 6” grill with in 5’.

Hole saw in a hole saw

 We tried cutting new holes for the ducking. The 4” holes were going to get cut to 4.5” holes. We put the 4” hole saw inside the 4.5” hole saw and tried it out. The 4” hole say just could not get deep enough into the hole to hold the set up steady. Rather than make a template we just connected the ducking from beyond because we could get at it.

 There is really only one place we need to use he 4.5 hole saw and that in by the front forward part of the bottom of the stove. We will eventually be putting a round brown supply  duck there for the 1200 btu unit.

Yet another vessel sink - hammerd nickle

 We got a new vessel sink. This time it is hammered brushed nickel. We also purchased a push drain. They work great. We had gotten a bronze vessel sink and water fall faucet   but the two were slightly different in shade and we could not find a drain we liked. It was getting too complicated and we were just not sure if there was too many shades of copper with the teak. Seeing as all the kohler shower equipment is stainless steel we decide to go with something similar. All the bronze pictures got deleted when I did a non thinking momentJ.

 We are now waiting for the faucet to arrive.

Got Cetal natrual on starbord side

 We got our first coat of Cetal Teak Natural on the starboard cap rail.
 It is a bigger job than you would think. There is a ton of prep as our teak was poorly varnished by we think the broker for a quick sae of the boat. First we had to strip the old varnish and then we waited a bit.  We removing most items or all we could from the cap rail and taped the rest.
We had to sand the cap rail with 80 grit then 220 grit. Then do all the taping.
First coat on. Now for four coats of gloss.

Shows the teak plugs we put in the old stern light mounting holes.

Changed the ducking on small AC unit

 While the Mermaid 5200 AC unit was out we decide to change the ducking to insulated ducking.
 This is because we were experiencing some condensation on the ducking in places when the AC did work. It was next to the head and salon bulkheads and by the hull. They say that if the ducking is next to the hull or going through the engine room etc it should be insulated. We decide that we will just do the ducking over as most of it should be insulated.
 We firest had to get the transition box out and the teak 4x4 dck off.

 The we used the saws all and the drummel to enlarge the ducking run up to the transition box. Not an easy job but we got it done. Then we removed the rest of the ducking.
Next we enlarged all the pass through holes with the saws all.

 It was piece by piece install of the Y’s and ducking. Each connection got three wraps of 11 mill thick duck tape. Then a wire tied clamp and then another piece of duck tape to cover the wire tires clamp.
 Then we pulled up the insulation and cover and taped again.
 Then we used the plastic plumbers tape to hold the ducking and Y’s in place.

Where AC unit goes in aft hanging locker.
Forward hanging locker.

After that was done we screwed in the supply grills.
Head y shower great.
Head by counter top.
On top of forward hanging locker.
We then painted the 3M 5200 that seals the transition box with some Rust-O-olem gloss blak paint and re-attached the teak supply grill.

 Now we are ready to roll again when the Ac gets back. Could
be we will be using it for heat instead of AC by the time it is running correctly J.