Shower sump working

 Testing the new Whale IC shower sump in our Islander Freeport 36 sail boat. Our head is where the V berth is usually at. It works fine and still needs some better plumbing and the wiring stil needs to be finished up but the concept works. It was a bit of a issue because the drop from the shower drain to the sensor is not much. Also the shower drain is only 5/8 or 1/2 inch so the water is a bity slow draining out but it does not affect taking a nice long 6 gal (6 gal hot water heater) shower. OK longer because you mix the water :)

Now to pull the strainer out!
I contacted Whale again and among the questions I asked was about the strainer.

“You do not need a strainer to catch hair with these pumps. One of the major benefits of a diaphragm pump is that it will push debris through the pump which is why they make ideal pumps for shower waste.”

 Wow it is worth it right there. No need to clean a strainer. We will have one in the shower pan but no need to clean a sump!

One the hoses are set up the white tabs will be epoxied to the hull to hold the hoses in place with wire ties.
The black things are to hold the sensor cable in place.

 We will change some of the hoses and fittings so there is way less hose. We needed to use so much hose so it would not kink. A different type of hose will bend without kinking and some other fittings. All in all it works fine.

All back to normal

Refer glassing

Debbie worked on the refer as I was working on the shower sump.
 She sanded and prepped the refer for our final fiber glassing we hope. There are three coats of glass on all three the sides. We just need to finish the top and top hatch edges and throw on the last piece of glass matting on the bottom and bingo we are done with the glassing, just right!
No matter long sleeves or not that stuff gets into your arms and itches.

Stopped by Fiberlay and picked up more epoxy - it is getting more expensive!

Piece of door teak behind toilet is done!

Another project finished!
 Debbie finished gluing on the bottom of the teak louvered door behind the toilet.  This completes the whole door and actually the toilet install also.
 Job well done as usual.  “Quality first” 

 This was so the door would clear the house hold size toilet we installed.
The bottom part of the door hat to be cut off and is documented in earlier posts.

You can hardly tell it was even done

Shower sump work

We re-invented the shower sump pump. It had to be re-engendered so that the Whale system was happy.
 With this new setup we think we achieved this goal. It will be in the test results if we did.

 The yellow sensor looks like it is below the pump but we are not positive. It is close and may be close enough.
The shower drain is low in the bow and so is hard to get below as you step back towards the stern. The sensor needs to be below the shower drain hose. It is too early to tell if this is the case as we need more hose to connect to it. 

If the sensor is not below the shower we have another trick up our sleeve to get it down.
 We can get some non-kink able hose and use a foot or so to attach to the bottom of the sensor instead of using the plastic elbow. This would give us a couple of inches possibly to move the sensor down, possibly.

The shower drain is a 5/8 hose connected to a white through hull in the shower drain pan (fiber glass tub) and is real difficult to get at from the bilge if at all accessible. If it broke or leaked then it would be a must do but for now we will unclog it and see how it goes by simply connecting a new hose to the old hose.  About the first couple of feet of 5/8 hose coming from the shower through hull is what we will leave to connect to. The rest we can cut out and discard. It is like the anchor locker, could use a bigger drain.  

The pump now sits in the next bilge compartment towards the bow.
 The hoses will get chafe guarded by the rib cut out

Wiring is in-complete

 The pump is an out of the way location yet easy to get at.

Need to attach the hose clamps -  sweating too much and moved onto other sump pump work

A nice loop running up under holding tank vent filter - hoses need to be secured yet

 The white sanitation hose that we had snaked through to the salon through hull we got connected. That means we do not need to switch it out.

 We will buy a different T fuse setup for the pump. A water resistant one as it sits in the bilge.

 We also need some hose and reducers.

 Facing aft

 Facing forward

 The wires from the nav station need to be extended and we cut a hole for them to get to the pump. This will need some chafe protection also and the wiring will need to be cleaned up. That is all secured in place.

 The strainer will need to be installed in the hose coming from the shower to the yellow sensor.

We are hoping for a holiday shower this coming weekend!

New pilow

  We went to Joann’s and picked up a pillow. I wanted one that would fit behind my head or back. One that would not fall off the seat when I got up. That was not too big.
We got one of these and it seems quite handy in the cockpit. Soon we try it out inside. Already I am liking it enough in the cockpit to get at least one more. Now what sunbrella fabric to cover them with?

Shower sump work

Still engendering the shower sump.
 We drilled a hole and opened it up a bit with the jug saw for the sensor in the next bilge compartment.
 There is already a pass through there so we just enlarged it a bit.

(Well I called Whale again about the wires as the instructions we have do not explain them well. The white wire from the pump he said to just ignore as it is for a bilge pump application and they are not color coded well.
The sensor does have to mount vertical not like we have it shown. So more engendering.)
They do have good support.

Whale Water Systems Inc
91 Manchester Valley Road,
P.O. Box 1788,
Manchester Center, VT 05255,

Tel: +1 802 367 1091
Fax: +1 802 367 1095

I think there is led under this fiber glass as I drilled a mounting hole and the drill bit came out with led.
The yellow box (the water sensor) needs to be below the pump. And also below the shower drain.

The strainer needs to be between the sensor and the shower drain.

The pump needs to be higher and could be some other place. The some other place is not that much help because you still need to run a hose to it and have a discharge hose going out. So far the best place is where the original shower sump was. The sensor uses 1” hoses and the pump 3/4 .
We bought a strainer that uses ¾ hoses.
The shower uses a 5/8 hose I think.
It also needs a vent hose to prevent air locks if you are not using two devices like two showers and we are just using one shower. We figure on running a 1” reduced to a ½ hose up to the holding tank vent outlet and installing an outlet for the vent in the hull there.
We went to ME and got a bunch of hoses etc for the installation. We already figured we do not need some and forgot others :)

As you can see we decided against using the white sanitation hose. It is just too hard to work with. When I called Whale they said this hose was fine. Debbie also picked up another mast step.

Emergency tiller

 While working on our shower sump we removed the emergency tiller from the bilge. We have not tested it yet for fit. It is a bit interesting looking and thought we would post some pictures of it. Some Freeport owners have found theirs have gone missing and have had to have them made, so here is what they look like.

With the handle stuck inside of its self

Together on the dock

The end

New Windows decided

Mark from Marks Plastics came by on Sunday and we all talked windows.

Our windows look OK. That is they are not real crazed and you can see out OK.
We just were wondering if they could be better or if we should just replace a couple of the not-so-good ones. Or just leave them as is as only one leaks a little, we could just fix that little leak.
 Mark brought a bunch of samples and some templates. 

These two samples are safety glass the one on the right is a darker tint
The two small pieces are for the windshields in the front of the cabin.

He had asked if we would remove a couple of frames so when he got there he could check out his templates. We took off all the screws on one frame but the frame did not move. Mark said it should come right off. We decide d to wait to see how they actually came off as we have never seen the frame apart. 

Lots of screws

When Mark got to the boat he said the must be attached with some silicone or some other stuff. As we found out the frames were removed at some point and the windows siliconed in to prevent leaks. If you look at the hand rails under the windows you can see where there was water leaks at some point in time.

I started with a putty knife working the frame like we did on the port holes

Once we got some of the silicone cut I could use a big screw driver to pry off the frame being car full to detach the headline from the silicone.

 Mark un-screwing a frame

Being real car full not to puncture or rip the head liner!

The frame almost off

 Now removing the rest of the silicone 

This makes the job much more difficult as we had to remove (me) three frames so Mark could check the thickness of the sides of the bulk head where the windows are. Also to see if the standard windows will fit or if we need oversized. It is slow going because it is most important not to rip the head liner. On the cockpit window it was the wood veneer you do not want to rip 
off. A small piece did come off but not where you could see it.

Side window frame - templates

Cockpit window

Mark removing screws

Me removing silicone and frame

Praying away frame


 Now removing silicone 

Mark checking depth

We are measuring width

Figuring it all out

Debbie and I are looking at and deciding on the tint for the windshield windows. You can see a sample glass by the hatch.

These are the darker tint

This tint is the one we chose - darker gray

This would be fine if we were going north not south lighter gray

New windshield windows tint

All back together

 All back together

All back together

 Mark was at the boat for at least two hours and explained a lot to us. We chose the darker tint glass windows. We also chose the new white frames. We had the choice of using our old inner frames but that would have given us part white and part brown on the inside. It would have save some cash on each window though. All in all a good experience. It was quite clear (notice pun) to use at the start that our windows while not being glazed we definitely the original windows and fogged up. This is the last major cosmetic project and it will enhance out quality of life over the years.
 We will also get new curtains to match the frames and out head liner and upholstery.
Now that will not be easy!