Macerator fixed some other under bed projects completed


 Our macerator bit the dust about a month ago. It was making some awful noises and not pumping. It is a diagram pump by SeaLand Dometic. It is a real nice pump that we picked up at the Chula Vista Marine Swap Meet. 

New duck bills.

We figured the duck bills as they call them blew out. As we have a pump out service and there were other issues (projects) we wanted to do under the bed where we have the macerator we just waited till the time was right.
 It is that time so we went for it.

First Debbie cleared the bed not that easy.
 Because we had a lot to do we completely cleared the bed instead of just the hatch.

The board inside the space goes against the holding tank but there is work to do so we have not put it into place yet.



We also decide to remove some sound insulation. If we decide we need it we can replace it.

 Next was to remove the macerator. Because we wanted to remove the hose from the macerator to the 1 1/2 inch through hull valve we removed the macerator.

  Next we had to figure out how to get the duck bills out. Whaich way does the pipe fittings turn? Righty tighty and whch side, or are they the same. After looking arround we decide to just go for it. We did look at the docks on the computer but did not notice the instructions as we needed to blow them up to see the full digram so we missed it. Any way we did not strip out any threads and found the correct way they turned. This was the first time we have done this and so we marked up the pump so next time it will be clear how to do what.

One duck bill was worn out and this side was sucked in backwards.

We were able to clear it out of the pump.

This was jammed under the bellows.

You can see the bellows part of the pump inside.
We then tested the pump with some test leads and it worked fine.

Wereplaced the plumbers tape on the threads of the pipes and put the duck bills in. The both face the same way. 
On the side with the larger length pipe molded into the housing the duck bill goes in.

 Now I should mention getting the mascerator out was not with out its dirty side. Pulling the hose's off spilled poo all over.

My pants and shoes in the soapy water. 

 Because the hose to the through hull had such a big loop in it (I put it in) there was lots of poo to come out. It spilled all over my shorts and shoes. My arm etc. The second hose was not so bad.

We decide to drill a new hole for the hose to go to the through hull valve. This time th ehose will go the same height our lower than the macerator. The next time it will be easier or cleaner removing the hose.
 There also will not be so much poo sitting in the big loop.


 So the macerator is back together and now it is time to remove the hose to the through completely.

You can see how big the loop was.

The hose still attached to the through hull.

 There is a reason we wanted to remove the hose from the through hull valve which has a curved bronze fitting on it. When we installed the hose we heated it and it only got on the fitting a little bit before the hose refused to move any more. We tried cutting it off and doing this again but the same thing happened. We were tired and beat up from the days work so we put a clamp on it and that was it. The hose clamp barley made it onto the hose and fitting. We figured at some point in time the macerator would get turned on before the person opened the through hull valve. This would blow the fuse but the way the hose fit on the fitting it could very well blow the hose off the fitting not blowing the fuse and spewing poo all over the inside of the salon bilge are. What a mess that would be, no thanks. 

  We went to A - Z marine and picked up a Dometic elbow and threaded fitting. We glued the PVC together and decide when we would put that fitting on and the hose would slide on nicely. They do work really nice. A fer discussing this issue on the Salinet forum it was pointed out that we should heat the fitting up then the hose and then push on the hose.

 That is exactly what we did. Of course we had to cut the hose off the through hull fitting, not easy then cut the hose to length and do the heating. Oh we had to mop out as much poo from the fitting as we could with a rag. Hot poo you know etc.

  We heated the fitting till it was sun hot then, went to the hose and heated it up being careful not to heat to far or too much. It went on nicely as I was sweating it would not screw up. Taking that fitting off would not be an easy task in the tight space and it was on real tight if this did not work.

Hose with hose clamp off just barley on fitting.
It is also deformed because I over heated it.


The mark was where not to heat past. All done and double clamped this time!

 Now we snaked it through and then cut it to length. It took a few cuts and it was still too long. no joke.

 It is still a bit long but I was wore out so it is fine. It just rubs a bit against the hole we cut. We can chafe protect it.


The old shower sump through hull is on the right. 
Way to hard to get at so we converted the old macerator through hull to it and added added a 1 1/2 inch through hull for the macerator, the correct size for the macerator.


This is the amount of the loop we removed.

 One of the side projects:

Shower sump hoses running up under bed by hull.

 The black ground wire will get removed. The other shower sump wires need to be secured yet.
The white hose is the gray water our from the shower. The clear hose is the shower sump vent.

As you can see the we ran the shower sump breather hose up through the locker and attached the shower gray water out hose to it. We first had to drill a hole for the shower sump breather hose.

Another side project: 

Buss need removing and wires re-run and secured.

 We were hopping to remove this buss and route the wires to the blade fuse block in the head. Not happening as we got to tired and time ran out on Saturday.

Another side project:
The snake!


 We did get the 10/2 wire snaked up by the dorad hose to the CARP breathing machine I use. This will connect to the DC power supply for the CARP machine and to the blade fuse block in the head. This way I can use the machine while at anchor at night. The wire is run to both locations now but needs to be connected at both ends yet. Still the snaking of the wire was the hard part and it runs under the bed so it was a project waiting till we climbed under the bed to finish.

 We tested the macerator and it works great again!

Xantrax Link 2000 wiring up


Ok so next time I will read the instructions, honest, OK maybe not but I’ll try!

The Link 2000 needed twisted pair for installation wiring. They used to sell it but they no longer sell the Link 2000 nor the twisted pair. So we needed to make our own twisted pair.


I looked at the back of the Xantrax Link 2000 and saw that there were orange and yellow twisted pair.

There were brown and green twisted pair.

Then there were the rest of the wires twisted together. The blue, black vilot and red.


Nicely done!

So I asked Debbie to help me twist up the wires. We did the same as was coming out of the Link 2000, makes perfect sense to me.

 Now it was time to install the terminal block for the Link 2000. We decided that by the radios was the best location as there was no way to get at the section behind the link at the nav station.

Some of the last of the virgin places!

OK got the terminal block in.
 Now I found out that the twisted pair are twisted wrong!
 I am yes, reading the instructions fro running the wires.

 The Yellow and brown are twisted together and so that means the green and red are twisted together!

UN-twisting

OK I ask Debbie, much to my chagrin over not reading the instructions and Debbie was nice and only gave a passing reference to the reading of the instruction to help me again.

Re-twisted.

 The Yellow and brown are twisted together and so that means the green and red are twisted together!
 This was done too late for the install to be finished and so another delayed project buy my own making. But it is about ready to be wired.

Un-twist was the word for the four wires, the blue, black, white and vi-lot.
The  vi-lot goes to the second battery, we are starting off with one bank for the iniital install so they get jumper-ed at the terminal block. The white if for the Link 2000 light. It draws next to nothing and can be left on all the time. 

Back to the install.


We do not want to see it all the time at night so we connected it to an orphaned off SS toggle switch the PO had installed. We can now turn the light on\off as desired.

 After we got the Link 2000 terminal block installed we needed to drill a few holes. Whats new.
 One for the wires to the batteries and one for the Link 2000 cumming in. Hay and why not a bigger one for the SSB? Ok did that too.





  The Link is now ready but for the twisted pair. Because we need to use the mounting hole for the Link 2000 to reach around for the Link 2000 wiring we leave it out.


 Now while were at it we install a terminal block for the VHF and AIS\ haler wiring. Also I realized there should be a terminal block for the LED map light so we install one there too but it is too late to do the wiring for the day on the LED lamp light. That side panel will come out and we will install the ICOM 802 speaker there (flush mount) so a square hole will need to be cut in the panel.  

All done for now.

Refer freezer lid fiber glassed


 Debbie took on the forward freezer lid for fiber glassing. 

The two freezer lids.

Another look at one.

You can see some router marks here on the edge where the lids sit on the freezer seal. They let air in making for more frost.

A void (the dark spot in the wood) makes the seal not completely sealed :).

Also filling the voids I created with the router with bubbles. Bubbles are a mixture of epoxy and fiber glass bubbles.

Debbie's science lab.

 Because it started to get a bit windy Debbie had a hard time fitting the fiber glass to the Dow Blue Board (DBB) insulation. She needed to mark it up so the right pieces would go in the right spots. This limited the project to one freezer lid instead of two for the day. The work bench is set up on the dock. We are limited to what we can do as we live on the boat. No garage with work shop in it.

 There was also an are where the back lid meets the front lid that I cut the DBB at an angle and it needs filling in to make it square and the two lids DBB meet each other square.
 Using the bobbles Debbie filled in the slanted edge, like filling a dent in the car :).
 You can also see the sealing edge with the bubbles in it for the router gouges I made. In a few areas the router guide slipped and the router plunged into the wood. Again I was working in an under ground garage with limited light and tools. My excuse?? 



Debbie fixed theses ares on both lids, thank you Debbie.



You can see the marks for fiber glass placement.
This is the forward lid, another day for the rear one.

All glassed up. The next day we fit the top into the freezer.

Tape removal.


 This time the top fit right in. It is a little tight as the fiber glass has some rough edges etc and needs some sanding but it did fit and only minimal sanding required! We did learn from the first lid.