Teak cleat blocks

Drilled the 5/16 holes in the teak blocks and then added a coat of varnish. Could not use the old holders for varnishing as the hole size changed so the coat hanger option was used. Now to buy the new bolts and drill the boat for new holes. Hmm that does not  sound right, drilling holes in the boat, for some reason.

Shower grate

To get the varnish even I had to sand it down a bit. I used an electric sander for this sanding as it was a bit much for hand sanding. I hated to see my hard fought varnish come off but it needs to be flat and nice.

I then went over it with a scratch pad including all the holes.
Then wiped it off with Interlux 333 and all the holes.

Then put on a coat of varnish including all the holes.

Still wet varnish
That is with 6 coats on top. But of course I probably sanded off a couple few to get it nice and flat.

All in all it is harder than it sounds, what we do for beauty

Plywood deck

This is our plywood floor for the interim while we varnish the grate. It is ½ inch thick and beveled on the edges with the sander.

 I just traced the original grate.

Under binical

This is a look at under the cockpit. The binical to be more exact. The green cable is just an extension cable run to the aft for 110.
 The red and black cable in the very front is the anchor windlass cable going to the stern anchor windlass.
In the back right you see the black hose, it is to the emergency bilge pump.
The white hoses are to\from the blower.
The blower can be seen in the lower back also.
Yep, we need to do some house cleaning here.
What the green chord is laying on is the 80 gal fuel tank.
Where is the autopilot?? Oh thats right we don't have one yet. bummer

Buss removal

 So there seems to be some question as to why we need two 250 amp busses. They could be right. I may remove them. I was thinking of future growth and “Why not”. But it seem that KISS is a better way. So out they will come and I can always add them back if needed later. If not I will sell them off before we leave.

Cap rail leaks

We have some leaking going on in our cap rail. It is confined to one area and could be in several places.
So once again we need to re-caulk this area. It could have been many different factors causing the leaks.
   The are was not prepped well enough.
    We did not use the multitool on this area
   Could have been still wet when we applied the caulking
   The product we used
  Could just be that it is a crap shoot and we lost on this spot

This is the stern area 
This is the forward area, up to the scupper
The four bolts are the ones holding the port rear cleat in and you can clearly see some old and new leaking there. There may also be some by the rear stanchion bolts.
Piece of removed caulking

We removed the cleat (furler cleat) and tried to remove winch but it is cemented in place.
We removed the caulking and used the multitool to dig out the old rotten wood and mud etc
We then remove all varnish that was by the caulking. The sanded and sanded it clean.
Now we are waiting for it to dry out and then we will caulk with 3M 40000 UV.

Buss shuffle

 Got to the boat yesterday and made the changes that were recommended by the Sailnet forum folks.

 The consensus was no small components in the same are as the batteries. So I removed the blade fuse panel and some small busses etc. and will re-locate them behind the nave station door.

 Got the two 600 amp busses and the two 250 amp busses in place and removed the rest. One 600 amp buss is hard to see because it has a black cover on it. I will get covers for the rest. Let the big fuse there.

Moved the one cover we have so far to the neg buss.

I am ready to do the cable ordering for these busses and fuse connections!!
Black cover is on positive buss in this pic

Wires going to neg ground (engine) and battery ground

These are the parts I removed
Also picked up this 125 amp fuse block and fuse for the blade fuse panel

Beta Video of Freeport

Here is a video which I took from Chuck  S/V  Perrovida at perrovida.com who did a Beta 37.5 engine installation.

What Chuck said about the install:
"I bought my sailboat, a 1978 Islander Freeport after it had been damaged  
during hurricane Ivan. The original Perkins 4-108 had gotten submerged  and
needed  rebuilt or replaced.
By the time you rebuild a motor ,transmission then replace all the old marine
parts, water pump,alternator,heat exchanger etc  you are getting pretty close
to the cost of a new motor. I decided on a all new set up and chose the Beta
Marine 37.5 HP engine and transmission with a 100 amp alternator.
Being very cost conscience  (cheap) I also decided to do the re power myself.
I had never done this type of work before but with all the information available
on the Internet I decided to give it a go.
I first removed the big old heavy Perkins and cleaned up the engine bay. The
Beta Marine diesel came with the transmission  attached and a flexible
coupler ready to slide into the prop shaft. My engine came with a 1 inch
coupler but the Freeport had a 1 1/4 shaft. A quick call to Stanley at Beta
Marine and the correct coupler was on the way. The shiny red motor also had
the 4 motor mounts attached and ready to bolt down to the engine bed.
I hung the new  engine over the engine bay and gently lowered it into position
with a temporary engine host I built out of  wood. I made notes of where I
would have to add on to the factory  engine bed. I then raised the engine
back up and out of the way while I modified the engine bed. A quick note on
this. If I would have purchased a new, longer propeller shaft , I would not have
had to modify the engine bed. By using the old shaft I saved money and have
a lot more working room at the front of the engine.
Working with fiberglass is quite easy and lack of experience working with this
material should not stop you from doing this yourself. It took less than a day
to modify the existing bed so that the Beta would have some beefy real estate
to bolt the motor mount to.
The next day I lowered the engine down onto the modified bed.  The new
flexible coupler has a flat face that mates up against another flat round plate
on the end of the prop shaft. I roughly aligned these two flat plates using the
adjustable engine feet. When the alignment was close enough that I could
bolt the two plates together, I did so.
A word about engine / shaft alignment. The coupler that Beta Marine supplies
with the engine makes shaft alignment   something that anybody can do using
a feller gauge and some patience.  No voodoo, just follow the easy to follow
instructions that come with the coupler. When you are finished aligning you
will have full confidence that the shaft is aligned. It took me 2 hours to along
the engine to the shaft.
The most time consuming part of this re power was enlarging the stock  
exhaust system. Read the information regarding this that Beta Marine
provides, call Stanley at Beta Marine with any questions. Take your time and
do this part right, your brand new engines life depends on it . Do not assume
that the factory exhaust was designed and installed  correctly, mine was not.
After the exhaust the rest of the install is  pretty close to plug and play.
Locate the new control panel and plug the supplied harness into the  engine,
one connector, thats it.. Feed your new baby with a Racor filtered  supply of
diesel fuel. Connect the battery and ground. Connect the raw water supply.
Finally connect the throttle and shift cables
After the rest of the storm damage was repaired we launched Perrovida .
After checking that she was water tight we opened the threw hull for the raw
water supply. I then turned the key and she fired up after a couple of turns. I
let the engine run for a while checking for leaks and just enjoying listing to the
sound of the diesel  rumbling beneath my feet. She was running very smooth
and quiet.
The next step  was to get away from the dock and see if the same prop that
was installed for the Perkins 4-108 would work for the Beta. After getting
into a open area of water I slowly opened the throttle all the way. The prop
held the engine just a few hundred RPM,s below the engines red line so I
pronounced the prop a match.
My wife had spent the last week loading the boat with supplies so after just 15
minutes of testing the engine we headed (hit) back to the dock, we locked the
car and left on a two month cruise , headed east from Pensacola down the

We had a great time getting to see the Panhandle of Florida from the water
and had zero engine problems. I kept checking the engine Allingment
, first every few days expecting something settle but the alignment stayed
spot on.

  The way in which I use the boat seems to be hard on the water pump
Impeller. I use the boat for a few months then put it in storage for months at a
times. One blade of the impeller is left in a very bent position and will break
off very quickly after sitting for several months. Now when I get the boat ready
for storage I remove the impeller  and store it in a zip lock baggie. It only
takes a couple of minutes to remove or re install. I also disconnect the fuel
suplly line and  feed the fuel supply with calibration fluid for a couple of
minutes. Calibration fluid is used when mechanics test a re manufactured fuel
pump. The fluid preserves the part while;e it waits on the shelf to be installed.
Since diesel always has a bit of water in it, the injector pump might start to
corrode if left unused for long periods of time, this procedure solves that
problem from ever happing.

After 4 years my Beta Marine diesel has operated flawlessly. I have sailed to
the Bahamas, Mexico and down to Belize. I am using less than 1/2 gallon of
diesel an hour while  motoring at 5 knots. I change the oil at the
recommended intervals , which is very easy with the mounted oil pump. I
change the fuel filters more than I need to. After almost 800 hours on the
Tachometer Stanly tells me it is time to adjust the valves.

Cleaning canvas

Marina Cortez in San Diego Harbor Island 6\28\2010

Debbie cleaned off the sacrificial canvas we have put on the boat to protect some areas from the bird poop. It gets pretty dirty and with the rain it got even more so.

New used ball fenders

Two new used fenders we bought at the marine swap meet. We got them for going to pump out. I Did not like not having anything to protect the bow. Debbie got a red and black one and it needed some air. I got a blue gray one that was pumped up. It is slightly larger, could really be too large.  We got them to the dock I pumped up the red & black one and it is fine, just needed a little air. Now where on the boat do you store them?
 So the next week we sign up for a pump out service! We are going to remove the Perkins so no way to get to pump out.
Now looks like we will storing two big fenders J

Fuse blocks etc

Got some electrical work done. Installed a few busses and switch and fuse block and fuse panel.

After installation I noticed on the instruction sheets that the fuse panel needs a fuse! Dam now it needs to be moved over to make room.

Also the fuse block from Xantrax shows it coming right off the battery whereas the WM demo shows the switch first!.
Need to sort that out.
Sorted that out. The fuse directly off the battery then the switch etc. so will need to re-measure the cable for that area.

Then order some cables and put some chafe protection around the hole and black neg ground wires.

Teak work

Finally! We found the teak oil we bought. The stuff in not inexpensive. We bought it to math up the teak we are working on so we can then varnish it.
 We did two spots.

The teak board we put up to cover the spinnaker pole hole from the PO and where the new fan is going to go. It has one coat of teak oil. We will wash the surrounding teak with TSP and see how it blends in. We may need to give the new piece a second coat of teak oil.
The second place we are working on now is the cabinet over the bed. I only did a section to see how it would look. Besides there are more teak plugs I need to put into old holes from the light that was there and want them to be oiled also. Looks like the same drill as the other spot as we will need to play around a bit to get it to match up. Here there will be two LED SS reading lamps and two tow blade quiet fans. That will help blend in the teak as it will be partially covered.

Looking up from the pillow

Cap rail

After the rain we were reminded that we still have a few leaks in the cap rail. We were not sure of where they were. It was a fairly dry summer as usual (ok wetter than most) but it was a light rainy summer, meaning when it rained it was light and did not accumulate much. So we were not bother by the leaking cap rail and were busy with other projects.
 So we started looking at the section that still leaks.
 Debbie has re-calked the entire cap rail but the stern. Inside and outside.
The part she started on was compromised I think by bad weather and possibly the product we used and the learning curve.
We started with Life Caulk on the inside but then switched to 3M 101 I think it was or 3M 4000 UV.
Any way we know more now and are going to remove the winch and the furler cleat we just replaced and pull out the caulking we did. The clean real good and re-caulk it with 3M 4000 UV.
Debbie in the port lazerett, you can see some leaking on top

 The winches have been upgraded by the PO and they are large. You can where the SS nuts look like new.
We will remove the winches and take them home where we will service them.

Also notice the fill and drill of the cleat bolt holes

You can see that the winches have been upgraded to a larger size 
Also moved slightly inboard
Looking aft


We have stopped most all the cap rail leaks and some of the water marks are old. We need to paint over them to see any new ones. Also need to silicone some dams in areas to isolate the leaking.


We went to install the hatch this weekend but it rained all morning on Saturday! We like to use two days for the install. The second day ids for final cleanup. After the hatch is set in place and the sealant cures for 24 hours we use Lacquer Thinner to finish off the cleanup. Si it looks like next weekend.
 We did put the hatch top on the salon table and install the dogs that hold the hatch top to the bottom when it is closed. Used a punch and the set pin went in using lots of oil. Fist i homed the holes out with a drill bit.

Here is the hard ware back from the painters.

Teak cleat blocks

We decided we need to fill and drill the teak cleat blocks and the cockpit coming so Debbie and I did the filling.
Cutting the needle tip off

The epoxy gets all over!

Debbie shooting up the teak block!