Stateroom door varnishing - back

 Got the door almost ready for another coat. As you can see in the pictures we use an iron sander to hit the spots that get runs and the varnish collects. Then the rest of the doo gets the red scratch pad treatment. I think we are on coat six, it is marked at the garage. After seven we will start just varnishing the trim with the gloss. Then do the inside panels with satin for their last three coats taping off the gloss. Got to speed it up a bit as we are getting close to moving aboard.

 We use a drop light a lot so we do not miss spots. This one was a dumpster save by Hinze.

 We had dinner over at the Hilton with Hinze last knight. He was telling us he needs a boat break. He also is a live aboard and is getting ready for cursing. He at this time is doing wiring and port holes from New Found Metals newfoundmetals.com. He was saying you never get a break because you go home to the same place you are working on. We can see that and hope we can compensate by going out a lot to say the movies etc.

 Back to the door...
 All the brass hardware still needs to be brought back to like new then coated with polyurethane so it stays that way.



Insulation - foaming meltdown

We cleaned the refer again removing any loose partials and Debbie tapped brown all over the area. She also picked up some more blue through away gloves. We had gotten some at Ace Hardware but they were clear and crap so we got some good ones.



  Debbie did the leveling and I did the spraying. It does not look level but that is because the foam expanded. Debbie worked hard at getting the foam into the crevices where the Dow Blue Board (DBB) had melted. We used almost a whole can of spray foam. 








The leftover we used in the freezer.
I tried to fill the old spill over (it is covered now by foam on the refer side) but it will be better done with DBB.

 Cleaned it up some but it was still expanding

 Now we will need to sand it. It will take a day or so to set up good.

JD's florescent lights

 JD had a few low profile florescent lights up for grabs that he took off his boat as he replaced his with LED strips on his Islander Freeport.
We grabbed them because one of ours is broken. Also one shade is broken. He was nice enough to give them to us free of charge! They are not made any more that I know of.






There are five of them in the salon. There is one over the nav station and two on each side of the boat.
We plan on converting them into LED’s later on, keeping the fixture and adding LED strips inside. It is a project we do not have time for right now.


Epoxy the refer - how too

Well, went to Fiberlay and talked to Kevin and he is the man. Speak to no one else there or you will be disappointed.

 Any way Kevin told me how to make a fiber glass sheet.

 Using a piece of Plexiglas you wax it with some car wax or other wax. Then using the epoxy and fiber glass cloth make the sheet on top of the Plexiglas. Then take the cloth he gave me and lay it over the fiber glass.  Squeegee it out with a rubber squeegee like shown below and let it dry. The cloth will come off and the fiber glass will come off the Plexiglas. There you have it!

 Kevin also said if we had epoxied the foam first the resin filler would have not reacted with the foam. Oh well.
 So I got some “bobbles” which are used as filler to make a paste to be used for the corners and making radios.  

 So first we sand everything in the refer down with #80 grit.

 Then measure all the flat areas and make fiber glass pieces for them.

 Then fiber glass in each piece using the epoxy.

Then put in the epoxy filler made with the bobbles into all the corners and edges to make them radiouses. 

You put it into a Ziploc bag and squeeze it into a corner of the bag. Then get all the air out of the bag and cut the corner off the bag. Now it can be squeezed into the corners and squeegeed to perfection.

Now using fiber glass tape you fold it in half and place it into the edges and then wet it out with epoxy.

Now you use some heavier fiber glass cloth and put another layer on the bottom.

You can use the lighter cloth on the side s for a second layer after the tape has been installed.
Using push pins if needed to hold the cloth in lace.

So let’s see how this all works out :)





Evaporator plate Ordered

 OK just ordered the Frigoboat Evaporator 200F Flat for the freezer from Swedish Marine.
 We need the Evaporator plate to get a better idea of how to build out the freezer.
 We will need to drill a 1 inch hole through behind the Evaporator 2/3 of the way up the freezer for the fan (taking into consideration the solid middle part of the fan.) Then drill a 1 inch hole up as high as possible behind the Evaporator for the return into the freezer for hot air. The hole for the fan can not be too big or it will freeze to contents of the refer :) This all has to be done after it is all put together except for the Evaporator plate, it will go in last.





We are on our way for more excitement!
Swedish Marine
1150 Brickyard Cove Rd. Suite B6
Point Richmond, CA 94801
Phone:   510-234-9566
Toll Free: 877-234-9501
Fax:       510-234-9599

Insulation gluing

We did get a few more pieces of foam put into the refer side. Now there are just two more pieces left. We could not add them as the clamps were in the way from the pieces we did add.






Salon Settee cushions dropped off

We dropped off the foam and cushions at Knox Upholstery.
 How exciting!
 We are asking them to make the mounting screw holes better so they do not tear up the fabric like the original ones do.
 The fabric for the salon cushions will be delivered there on Monday.
 The settee fabric is supposedly already delivered there.



 Now the couch is not ours :)




Insulation - Epoxying

 So at Fiberlay I was told that it would be OK to use the Fiberlay resin filler for the corners to make radiuses. Seeing as they were helpful in the other tips they gave me I went with it.
  Now I must say the last two times I was there at the counter there were different men and each of those times they were less than friendly. One was almost rude but I could say stand offish.


 What happened was I used the resin filler and it melted the Dow Blue Board Foam! So I should know better in that we bought a two part epoxy just for doing the refer because of this very issue. For some reason I thought that it was the different hardener or liquid resin that would melt the foam when actually they are the same only one is a paste. But what do I know? We have never done this before. Most we have done is fiber glass up a couple surf boards. So I was maybe overly dependent on their advice.
 Now I have read the Fiberlay course and thought we were set.
 fiberlay.com - How To - A Fiberglass Seminar/Training Booklet


 Yikes! The foam is melting!


  The area that did not melt was the first part we did which mislead me into thinking things were going fine. Now that we thought about it, that are is the fiber glass separator panel and there was spray foam on top of the Dow Blue Board  (DBB) so it was not affected. There the resin paste hardened and will not come out. That is OK because it did not do any damage.




Melted foam and resin paste on edges

 So we had to quickly remove the paste from the refer.


At first I was really bombed thinking we may need to pull out the DBB from the refer and start over. That is not the case so we move on.   
 Of course I sat and pouted and was wo-as-poor-me for a while.

 I think the part that really got me pissed off was I called them at the Fiberlay in San Diego and asked them about it. As disappointed and upset as I was (the sky is falling) I was nice on the phone. They said oh ya that happens. When I asked for the solution he said I don’t know try bondo.
Now come on, bondo! That’s for cars, metal and any way I have worked with bondo and it is not the solution.

 We then called Fiberlay corporate tech support and they said we would need to make our own epoxy paste and told us how.  
1-800-942-0660

 So now we need to fix the Dow Blue Board (DBB). We will try using the spay foam on top of the DBB to fill the areas that were melted. Some are as deep as ½ inch but only a couple and not a much of an are. Also most of the areas have two inches of  DBB so a little less is not a big deal. Most are ¼ or so of an inch deep. Lets see how the spray foam will work on this. It is an R-5 just as the DBB is but getting it flat will be the issue here. I will spray the foam and Debbie will try to level it off as best as she can. The next phase is to lay fiber glass, so the area needs to be of a finished quality.
 If this dos not work we can fill the areas with the spray foam and use a fiber glass panel for the bottom to make it flat if need be. Any way it looks ugly but the sky is not falling and it is all fixable.

 We will go back to Fiberlay San Diego to purchase the epoxy paste materials so that all our chemicals are the same for the project. We have already purchased the two part epoxy, hardener etc from Fiberlay so we want to keep it all the same.

 If we had it to do over again we would only speak with Kevin at Fiberlay.

Insulation - freezer

We started the freezer side of the refer by cleaning it out and sanding it with the iron sander #80 grit.
The we cleaned with Acetone and glued in our first piece of Dow Blue Board.



Evaporator plate R and D

 So we talked to Swedish Marine  for tech support on the 200f evaporator plate (40 inches long) and we can make several bends to have it conform to our box. Also because of our refer to freezer size (evaporator ) we could freeze ice cream :)
The spill over can be at the back of the evaporator and does not need to be on top of it. Also the evaporator should be on the refer side not the hull side. That means the metal parts would be on the refer side.
swedishmarine.com

Swedish Marine
1150 Brickyard Cove Rd. Suite B6
Point Richmond, CA 94801
Phone:   510-234-9566
Toll Free: 877-234-9501
Fax:       510-234-9599




 For instance we could:

bend one end 7 inches and then bend it again 5 inches? 
Then another end 8 inches and again 4 inches
24 inches in bends so the strait part world be 16 inches

Now we would probably want it to be more of a square so say 
8 inches and again 4 inches
8 inches and again 4 inches
 The we would still have 16 inches straight. 
So you get the idea


Insulation - foaming

 After we spray foamed all the voids in the Dow Blue Board foam we needed to clean it up.
To do this we used a knife to trim off as much as we could and then used the iron sander and #80 grit to sand the foam. This worked well. If you try to pry it off the foam will take out chunks of blue board foam with it.




Trimming off excess with knife
All sanded


New prop on

The new three blade prop is now on the boat. The old two blade prop was not correct for our engine.
Now we need to go on sea trials again that we have the new prop on.


Old two blade prop

Here is our diver jose 

If you need a good diver and he is a nice guy then here you go.
619 829 6317