Boat hook

Because we are in a 35’ slip that is just about wide enough (we use ac couple flat fenders) we decide a boat hook was need to pole out. You can see it mounted on the stanchions. Got to look through the power cord etc. It is a Shroud and we have a bunch of attachments for it. We also have another Shroud pole we use for a broom.

Galvanic Isolator

Our insurance company required that we install a Galvanic Isolator as part of our survey.
So rater than argue about it we complied.
Also the Xantrex Freedome 2000 inverter\charger wanted one installed as part of their grounding requirements.
We installed it in the starbord lazerett.



Head LED red\white light

We replaced the florescent light in the vanity in the head with a LED light. It will do both bright white and red. With the curtsey lights on in the boat this light when switched to red allows you to walk through the boat say at watch at night and go to the head without losing your night vision.

New dorade (cowl) vent paint


New dorade (cowl) vent paint
An easy and quick project with a big bang. It was simply a matter of washing them real good and removing old paint. I think we used acetone. We then bought some red Rust-Oleum paint from Home Depot and put a couple coats on. They have held up pretty well so far. It’


s been at least six months.

The hatches project

The hatch project was not as bad as the porthole project but still a lot of work. We took each hatch out and rebuilt them and put them back inAll our four hatches are 20x20.
One over the head, one over the bed and two in the main salon.
We first made a plywood cover for the hatch hole ½ or ¾ thick. Painted it and drill he screw holes to anchor it in place.
First we removed all the screws for the hatch.
We then would use two paint scrappers, good ones to go around the hatch on the outside and inside cutting through the sealant being careful not to hurt the black rubber gasket.

Go around side ways as it will cut through the sealant.
Once the hatch was removed we would remove the rubber gasket and completely clean it till it was like new. We used lacquered thinner and wire brush and a pocket knife.





We tapped up the hatch opening so all the crap would not fall into the boat when cleaning.


Then we removed the dogs from the hatch by knocking out the drift pins and then did the same on the hinges.
We ordered new pins from pompanette.com who now handles the hatches we have.
We also ordered the sealent for the hatch glass and the glue for the hatch gasket from them.
We used 3M 101 to seat the hatches.
After the hatch glass was out and the hatch was stripped of everything we would wire brush them to remove any loose stuff like rubber and paint.
Then they went to R.J. little company here in San Diego where they were painted with a two part epoxy marine paint. We did ours in white. Also all the other hardware for the hatch was panted.
We got new glass made from San Diego plastics.
We also would then clean the deck and inside of the cabin where the hatch came from.
Everything must be super clean.
When the hatch cam back from paint I then would ream out the holes for the pins and run a tap through the threads for the hardware.
We bought all new fasteners from the fastener shop.
To re-seat the hatches we would tape off the area and use brown paper to cover the area.
Clean the hatch before installing. We would wipe it one way with just a bit of acetone on the area where the sealant was going.
Then put down a bit of 101 and rub it into the fiberglass and then put 101 of both sides of the gasket and on the bottom of the hatch.
Then put the gasket onto the hatch and then place the hatch onto the fiberglass.
Clean the new screws in acetone and put 101 around the head of the screw so it seals it just before screwing it in. Screw down them all down cross manner and clean up. Come back the next day for more clean up. Not letting the 101 setup for too long before the second clean up.
Use say lacquer thinner for clean up. Do not use too much as it may seep in causing a leak.
Then install glass. We used 1 inch strapping to go across the glass and clamps as pictured. Do not remove the top side covering until all done. The first hatch we put the glass on last. It is easier to put the glass on the top of the hatch first then install the top of the hatch to the bottom part after.
Then install gasket. Cut it a little longer than you think is needed, you can trim it off after you have it fitted.
Then make canvas cover.
The use 3M 101 on the inside to fill the space between the head line and the hatch.
All the time cleaning and taping.
After the hatch was installed we cleaned up around the inside of the hatch and then Debbie taped around it. She then took 3M 101 and spread it around the gap smoothing it over. Comes out nice.
Then add SkyShade for hatch.
This takes a while and is some work however these are well made heavy aluminum hatches and will last and work great another 30 years. I have heard stories of newer hatches being installed and the lips being cracked and leaking etc. You will save a good amount of money and have great hatches by DIY. None of our hatches leak and they look great.
I think they still make these hatches, the 20x20 ones.
Debbie made Sumbrella covers in white for the hatches. We also added a small tether to each cover using whipping twine so we would not lose them in a blow.
.


You can do the rebuild for less than $400.00 a hatch I think. They cost new about $1000.00. You would still need to remove the old one and use the same gasket as they do not make those for our boats any more. Also you would still need to buy the 3M 101.
All Done!









Putting in the glass




Clean up
Clean up

One of the old hatches below.

Varnishing the vanity

We started varnishing the vanity in the head. This is our first varniching project! It is a big job because we are doing the inside and it takes a lot of prep for each coat. We will be replacing the mirrors and mirror handles. Also the florescent light above the mirrors.
We are doing the trim on the inside of the boat in gloss and the flat parts in satin.






Binical engine control

Yes the who would know it binical project. Caught by complete surprise as we were motoring out in the bay the engine controls started acting up. So Debbie says as she is at the helm. I said OK and we just went on. I thought it was kelp or some other oceany thing. So I take over to dock it.
Debbie has since then learned how to dock the boat just fine. She really knew as she did a great job with our Catalina 30 but was apprehensive because of the shear size difference of the boats.
As we approach the dock I notice we can not slow down. Hmmmm.. we are barely moving so all went well. I play a little with the controls and figure the cable to the speed lever is broken. What that means is the binical need to come apart. So the job begins. Not then but in a couple days.
Of course we have never done this before so we get good advice from FOGers and proceed. First thing is remove the compass. OK no big deal. Some screws and wires.
Next remove the plate that covers the PLASTIC!! engine control housing. Ok it comes off. You can see the break in the plastic housing. The shift side is fine. That will break as I try to get the housing off the binical.



We remove the engine control handles.
So now we need to get the plastic housing off. Well not so fast. The screws holding it on are long and have been there 30 years. Hummm, going to need something bigger than what I have which is a large flat head screw driver. We go to “Tool Time” and pick up an impact driver. I ask for a bigger bit for the impact screw driver. They said the one they have a lot of boaters buy. I said that’s us. So armed and dangerous I am. We use the impact as a screw driver and each turn is hard. I sprayed easy out around the screws.

We get out three screws but there is that one that will not come out. I turn as hard as I can (it is part way out ) and it breaks. Should have tried to turn each one a quarter turn at a time but removed one at a time. I think it put too much stress on the last one. Any way it is broke. Sooo we now need to drill it. Another day for this. We do get the housing off.


The broken screw is under plate holding the instruments. Guess what, yep the housing holding the instruments must come up. We then need to pull up some extra wire that goes through the SS rail to the instruments. Then we need to take a plastic hammer and inch it up on the rail.

Sooo we now need to drill the broken screw out. Another day for this.
I think we are going to drill it out then re-tap a thread or helicoil it.
I get the tap and a new drill bit. I start the pilot hole and the screw turns. Wow good that is good news. It will however not come out.
We get the screw out but need to drill out the threads as they are toast.
We had to remove the binnacle so we could drill out the hole and tap a new thread. After drilling out the old hole we decided to just put through a screw and tichten it up and then steak it so it would not come loose.


After much research on the web we find a man who made about 80 of these in aluminum. He changed machine shops a few time but we found him.
Bought the new housing from him.
We sent it to the paint shop for a two part epoxy marine paint job like on our hatches.


We put it back together and getting the nut on the screw with a lock washer was not easy. Because of it’s location Debbie had to tape the nut to her finger and get it on that way.