Arrived without bolt - C2-107 POWER LED FLOODLIGHT BY IMTR

Our new C2-107 POWER LED FLOODLIGHT BY IMTRA came but did not come with the mounting bolt. This is the one that is made to hang upside down. We ordered the other.
 I called (1-877-447-2457) and found out that the bolt is an optional item, which they did not know either.
 He was very nice and ordered it for me for half off and no shipping. On the IMTRA site or any site the bolt is not explained as optional.
 You can see the bolt in the picture on the box.

Drilled the fan holes\PVC pipe!

 We got the holes drilled through from the freezer side to the refer side for the spill over fan.
5 – 3/8 holes for the fan.
Our dock mate Hinze suggested we not put the fan behind the EP as it can frost up and block the flow of air to the refer. That left just a little room at the back side of the separator wall for the fan to go.

 We used our handy dandy 90 degree drill attachment to do this. 

We will need to add some epoxy paint to this back corner of the refer :)

And here is the first hole on the refer side

It was a tight fit but the drill made it in the freezer. The first hole we drilled looked too high. I miss-understood the support email from Swedish Marine and thought Anders meant to go up 2/3 from the bottom of the evaporator plate (EP). The we decided it was 2/3 up from the bottom of the freezer. This took quite a while as we (Debbie) made a fan template and did a lot of measuring. Not an easy spot to get at, and that's news? We did a lot of jaw boning about this as I was going to drill and just guess as to location but Debbie suggested that was like pounding the nail into the wall looking for a stud. Now I know how that turns out, lots of holes and one that hits the stud!
We are also putting a shelf into the refer and did not want the fan to be in the way of the shelf or visa versa. And now it will not be as the fan placement is correct.

The one hole on the top right was the mistake, it will get filled.

 We finally got it right and drilled the five holes. Now we will wire up the fan and get the screws need to install it. The wires will go through a yet to-be-drilled hole from the refer to the freezer and then through the hole out by the compressor and up into the galley to the thermostat.
 We are also installing 10” led strip lights in both compartments. 
We will install two in the refer and we are hoping one in the freezer, if the light can stand zero degrees temperature. These are the same type as we installed in the engine room (4 -20 inch SeaMaster LED strips) and we like them a lot.

So there is one 3/8 hole to fill, top right.
Next is the spill over hole for the hot air to go to the freezer. We will drill a hole in the separator wall and install a PVC pipe for this return air hole. We decide not to recces the fan in the separation wall as we have plenty of space in our refer and the fan will not be in our way.

 Here is the fan held in place with a pencil in one of the holes. 

We did not have screws that fit so off to Marine Exchange tomorrow for supplies. Debbie has already been to HD for PVC pipe etc. The fan is not shown with the face plate on it.
PVC pipe stuck, needed a not-so gentle pat with the hammer

Hole to lazerett that needs sealing up around edges and a chanfer on the plywood

Needs to be cut flush and sealed around the edges

We also installed a PVC pipe into the lazerett from the freezer. It was a tight fit which is good and it is at an angle so the hole will miss the yet to be installed propane locker. We will now need to mark it and cut it flush. Then we wills seal it up around the edges. This took a bit of hammering to get it through the middle layer of the original fiberglass freezer.

 There needs to be a hole for the wires, thermostat, lights, and fan wires to go from the refer to the freezer and out the back. That is probably a 1/2 hole to be drilled.

How to make the spill over work

We got an answer from Andrew at Swedish Marine on our spill over questions.

We have a Frigoboat keel cooler system but this would work for most spill over systems.

"I usually put one hole up high, 1" should be sufficient. The spill over fan I mount 2 third up from the bottom. I try to mount the fan inside the separation wall so it does not protrude out, then I do a circle of 3/8" holes(maybe five) where the fan blades are. Another way would be to make the hole as big as the fan and then cover it with a closeable louver.

Here is a possible work flow for Debbie and I:

Freezer side
  • Mark the spot in the freezer for the fan.
  • Draw an outline of the fan over that spot.
  • Drill five 3/8 holes where the blades will be.

Got to refer side.

  • Put fan up against the five holes and draw an outline of the fan.
  • Use a box opening knife to cut out the square.
  • Now do we “paint” the inside (insulation) with epoxy and then screw in fan?
  • Do we make a slightly bigger hole and fiber glass in the square then screw in the fan?
  • One lawyer of fiber glass tape would work?
  • If there prove to be too many 3/8 holes we could unscrew the fan and block one or more holes up.

1150 Brickyard Cove Rd. Suite B6
Point Richmond, CA 94801
Phone: 510-234-9566
Fax: 510-234-9599

What are the Correct Temperatures?

What Is the Correct Freezer Temperature?  

Most things that do not have high sugar content are frozen solid at about 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Ice Cream needs to be below about 5 degrees to be solid. The colder the freezer temperature, the longer the food can be stored.
Always use 0 degrees F as a goal. That leaves a good size safety margin. Most reach-in freezers are designed to go down below 5 degrees. Most walk-in freezers are designed to get well below 0 degrees. 

What is the Correct Refrigerator Temperature?

The United States Food and Drug Administration set the maximum refrigerator temperature at 41 Degrees Fahrenheit.
That temperature is the maximum for the actual product being refrigerated. This is often confused for the air temperature. The air temperature may fluctuate but the product temperature must remain at 41 or lower.
The colder the product, the longer it will last. That makes 38 Degrees a more optimum temperature. A unit set at 38 Degrees might come on at 38 Degrees and shut off at 35 Degrees. Temperatures below 35 Degrees require a forced defrost cycle. 

Cetal Marine Teak Natural and cap rail?

Here is the troller with some gloss coats on the Cetal Marine Natural Teak.

Original bilge pump hoses

We got the original bilge pump hoses configured with new hoses and strainer. We were about to install them on the pump and I forgot which hose barb on the pump is the intake. Will need to find that out and install the hose :)

Fresh water Pump not broken?

 We fixed the little leak going into the pump. We were going to re-plump the water tank connections but as it goes I lost one of the fittings we bought so I just fixed the leak and was done with it.
 The pump seems better but it is too early to tell if it is not cycling any more.

Cockpit grate got coat of Teak Wonder

We threw another coat of Teak Wonder on the cockpit grate as that will not get done for a while now with the marina move.

Bent the evaporator plate!

 We decided to wait to paint the freezer. Instead we worked on the evaporator plate (EP) and fitting it into the freezer. We are moving marinas and wanted to take advantage of the help offered by Hinze our dock mate on bending the EP. Hinze our dock mate has already done this to his refer\freezer and was there to help. He maintains kitchen equipment for a living so has a lot of experience at this, we have none. We first assembled the tools, the hatch cover from a salon storage are for a flat piece of wood. A 2” piece of PVC pipe cut to the width of the wood hatch cover and a couple clamps. The Work Mate was also a handy item for a bench to work off. Hinze and I both took measurements and both of us came up with different lengths. 
Debbie went and took an exact measurement and we went with the correct one, hers.

With Debbie's measurements we marked the first bend on the plate  

We then clamped it up

Man, my hair is sure getting thin!

Hinze making the first bend, hay wait for me :)

Looks good, the bend

We had the plate clamped down and I thought we were going to use a piece of wood to bend it. Also a square to get the setup correct. Hinze had other plans. He simply bent it up using his hand. The first bend came out great. Hinze said he likes to feel it and that seems to work for him.
 When clamping down the EP it needs to be firm in place so it does not move while bending but not so tight it crushes the chambers in the plate, if so then it is trash. If it kinks it is trash and if the bend is wrong it is most likely trash.
Debbie did good with the measurements on the next bend also and Hinze had it bent up in no time at all.

Next we fitted the EP.

 Looking to the bow

 Looking to the stern

 We had thought that we had messed up when we made the freezer and the plate was going to stick up to within an inch of the top because of the way the freezer slants in from the side of the boat. That would have allowed only one inch of insulation on the top hatch of the freezer. As it happened we did not mess up and the EP fit fine. It needs a little tweaking but will sit in the freezer fine. We had made a cardboard template (Debbie made it) and used it regularly to help build the freezer around it. The EP was almost 11” and our template was closer to 10 ½” high though as we thought that was the actual measurement.

Hinze had a long drill bit

  All is well so now to drill the hole in the back of the freezer for the tubing from the EP that is now coiled up.
 Because we will have a propane locker in this area also we wanted to make sure we missed it with the hole into the lazerett. To do this Debbie crawled into the lazerett (she is no stranger to this now) and measured the distance we needed to drill. We did this several times with me in the boat and measuring the freezer side to try to match up the location. 

Drill bit sticking in hole

Drill bit on lazerett side

After several careful measurements I drilled the hole - a few inches off. It still will be OK as there was a 5” tolerance for mistakes. It was off on the lazerett side. I slanted the drill bit as it went through but my guest-a-mate was off by the three inches toward the inside of the boat. 
 Now we are ready to drill the big hole!

 We did not have a 1 ¼ inch hole saw so we used a 1 5/8, close.

Debbie inside lazerett taking measurements and drill big hole from that side with the hole saw and drill.
 This hole will be filled with a piece of PVC pipe run through it and the PVC pipe will get epoxied in. 

Freezer side 
Lazarette side

Debbie cleaning her way out
 We drilled through the three layers of fiber glass we added - three inches of Dow Blue Board insulation we added to the back wall, the three inches of insulation that came with the boat and then through the 3/4 inch plywood to get to the lazerett. Well Debbie drilled through he 3/4 plywood and 3" of original boat insulation and I drilled the rest through the freezer.
Then we will run the tubing through the PVC pipe. This will also allow for replacement if something should go wrong with the EP. You know, like an ice pick run into it or something bad. If we just cut the hole and run the tubing through it and back filled it with spray foam it could be real hard to get out. We will back fill the PVC pipe with Dow Blue Board insulation. 

 Now for the spill over holes!
 Also we need to figure out the wiring for the LED light, the fan and the thermostats, where is it going to exit the freezer?