As you can see my first grade drawing of the section to remove. It has dark lines on it. This is under the salon seating area. This will make room for the TW Holding Tank Discharge Pump(macerator) through hull and valve and elbow.
Well the water heater project is going to get moved. It has needed to get moved since the engine was installed and actually way before that. The time was never right. It is now time. Debbie is away for the weekend and the weekend is dedicated to this project.
First though there are some other things that need to get done of course. The first this is put the elbow on the through valve for the new macerator as it will be in close to the water heater (HWH) and would be harder to do later. In order to allow the elbow to spin we need to cut away some of the wood under the salon seat. Islander put a piece of wood bracing under the seat and let it go on back to the hull side. It is not needed that far back and does nothing for support. We will cut a small section out allowing the elbow to spin around while threading it onto the through hull valve.
Wrestled with the jig saw and got the section cut out, then rasped it up to smooth off the edge, not shown
elbow.
The elbow just makes it by.
I do not want to get too side tracked on this post about the macerators. I’ll just say the OM we rebuilt and could never get to work in the new waste system although it worked fine in a bucket of water. We got two Domestic VacuFlush macerators at the Chula Vista swap meet and one was rebuilt by Dependable Marine and the other I tested to be good. So one as a backup.
These are great bellow-style "T" pumps, TW Holding Tank Discharge Pump(macerator) very quite and with few moving parts and will replace the OM we had tried to get working.
Now to start dis-assembling the hose etc from the OM. Now I expected some waste to come out of the hose and sure enough it did and stunk. It took some quick clean up and then a lot of struggling to remove the hoses and OM from inside the cabinet behind the salon seat.
You can see some poo on top of the HWH and down the side, oh yum
The old hose hanging there and the new hose put on. The new hose we bought was 6 feet long and we needed to cut off about a foot to make it fit right. I wanted to get the new hose on to help stop the smell, it still was not connected on the other end to anything though so a rag would help stuffed in it.
It did all come out fine. The other side benefit of this removal was the freeing up of the old macerator through hull valve. This one is going to be used as our shower sump discharge through hull valve. The old shower sump through whole valve is under the bead. Real handy place. I guess it helps preserve water as no one is going to want to take a shower if you need to lift up the mattress and then lean down in and turn a valve. Maybe the idea was to leave it open all the time? Even so if the time come on a passage or something when you need to close it it would not be easy, epically in a rolling sea. This old macerator through whole valve Debbie can reach easily so opening it to take a shower will not be a problem.
OM through hull valve - will need to wire tie the water tank hoses out of the way.
TW Holding Tank Discharge Pump(macerator) out through hull and valve with elbow.
New TW Holding Tank Discharge Pump(macerator) through hole and valve with elbow ready for that project!
The white piping is for the old original macerator and will come out.
The new macerator requires (or would like) to have a larger through hole so we put one in. Getting off the subject again.
Original macerator with new plumbing we tried.
Pump out fitting and new hose.
New one piece hose now connected and ready for use (pump out) .
This hose goes directly to the top of the holding tank were it connects to a pipe that goes to the bottom of the tank. No leaks and if there ever were they would be from the top of the tank, easy to get at and repair.
Plus this is now one solid hose so no chance for connection leaks! No Y valve to turn to change from maceration to pump out!
This hose goes directly to the top of the holding tank were it connects to a pipe that goes to the bottom of the tank. No leaks and if there ever were they would be from the top of the tank, easy to get at and repair.
Plus this is now one solid hose so no chance for connection leaks! No Y valve to turn to change from maceration to pump out!
Water filter out - notice the older hoses and the holding tank filter location
Those in-expensive cutters we got at Harbor Freight for cutting the anchor windlass cables sure come in handy for cutting about everything. Deciding getting the heat gun into the are was not easy I just cut the hose right off the water filter to remove it. That side was being stubborn as the hose was not coming loose.
Poop filter.
Easy reach for replacing.
We had left some extra hose on the holding tank vent filter for when this time came. We want to place this filter so it is easy to change in the future. We installed it knowing that we were going to change the layout of the hoses and that time has come. We moved it to a handy location and cut the hose to fit it’s new spot. Nice and easy to get at and change when needed. See some older posts on how to rebuild this filter..
Water heater.
Water heater not moved yet.
To do this we disconnected a couple hoses and a bunch of water drained into the bilge.
Kinked over that hose to try to stop water from pouring out by connecting it to another leaking fitting
At Marine Exchange I got all the Quest fittings (the gray hose fittings that Islander used) for the HWH connections and some sanitary hose. Then at the desk I found out that Marine Exchange did not have any 3/8 Quest hose (which is now white in color). Now what? I decide to keep the connections in case we needed them and if not we can return them. I then got a bunch of hose barbs and decided to use the rubber reinforced hose we have at the boat. Then after all is said and done we can but the correct water hose and plumb it up right. Back to the boat.
Hose from the storage unit.
With the HWH back it is obvious the copper piping is sticking out too far, kind thought so but this confirmed it. To remove it and replace it with a shorter more desirable elbow etc would be taking a chance on breaking this old WH. I decide to just get it into place and re-plumb it and get the water working. This was done and I took a needed break.
The next item that we really wanted to get accomplished was moving the fresh water pump.
SHURflo SMART SENSOR 5.7 water pump
This pump replaced the original one and we just put it into the same location. We have since decide that this pump should be moved to the engine room where it will not be heard at all and yet will be easy to get to and service. That is the strainer or if the pump should need replacing etc. The space in which we wanted the pump to go was not a large enough are. That meant we needed to move some wires an the PVC conduct pipe that runs along the engine room bulkhead. That turned into an easy enough job and wala there was room. Not a lot of space to work in even with the floor boards off and the aluminum supports off but doable. We want to leave the space in the engine room deck open because it is handy being able to stand inside the engine room.
SHURflo SMART SENSOR 5.7 water pump
This pump replaced the original one and we just put it into the same location. We have since decide that this pump should be moved to the engine room where it will not be heard at all and yet will be easy to get to and service. That is the strainer or if the pump should need replacing etc. The space in which we wanted the pump to go was not a large enough are. That meant we needed to move some wires an the PVC conduct pipe that runs along the engine room bulkhead. That turned into an easy enough job and wala there was room. Not a lot of space to work in even with the floor boards off and the aluminum supports off but doable. We want to leave the space in the engine room deck open because it is handy being able to stand inside the engine room.
The house SHURflo SMART SENSOR 5.7 water pump in place.
Temporarily wired up - will fix the wire later.
It is working good!
With the Perkins in there they was no room at all. Now the access is pretty good. The Original wiring to the pump is in fine shape so I just re-connected it and we were off and pumping. The hose we used does not bend all that well so a big loop had to be made to not kink the hose. This we can replace later along with the HW heater.
Now that the fresh water pump is moved and I still have a little life left in me I wired back up the HWH.
I just used a piece of 3 #10 wire and connected the original wires back to the HWH with the new wire harness I made.
We will be replacing this water heater with a new one.
The original wiring is in really good shape, that means we probably will not go to the project of replacing it up to the nav station. My revisit that project at a later time.
Now that the fresh water pump is moved and I still have a little life left in me I wired back up the HWH.
We will be replacing this water heater with a new one.
Original wiring.
Original wires on the boat.
Wired for hot water!
We plan on re-installing the original Perkins engine cooling water tank.
This tank prevents air locks when the heat exchanger from the engine to the HWH is above the engine. It is a matter of where the hoses go to the new HWH that is the factor in the location for this tank. We would like to put it here where the old accumulator tank was for the fresh water.
All done.
All done and all that work as usual you can not see any of it 😁 dam!
The fresh water pump now can not be heard while running. Seems just like on land. Turn on the water and you get water, you do not hear a fresh water pump or any other noise but the water coming out of the tap!
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