Debbie marking the chain. We are putting new marks on to watch for chain twisting and replacing some worn out chain-length markers. Yes it is HOT and Debbie found just a bit of shade!
Also the Mantus Chain hook and bridle system has a Stainless Steel eye that is twisted in the splice that we are fixing.
July 2020 - We are
currently in Paradise Village Marina in Banderas Bay Mexico (by Puerto Vallarta)
Debbie is painting about four links about every 11 feet. Only the top side of the chain link as it goes down through the Lewmar H3 Anchor Windlass gypsy.
This did not turn out so well. We realized putting the chain back that the markings were wrong😖 The chain got turned and a lot of marks ended up on the wrong side of the links.
We ended up pulling the chain back out and stretched it way out and remarked the same places and even more with wire ties. Then we reloaded all the chain to make sure the wire ties went down the gypsy on top of the chain. Meaning there were no twists in the chain and the chain was marked properly.
New 30' marker. Usually when this marker hits the water I know the anchor is on the bottom. I'll pull on the chain and if it comes up easy then the anchor is on the bottom. I then take a waypoint. Also Debbie marks it on the chart plotter. Of course if we are in say 20' of water then when I first see the 30' mark come out of the windless I know we are there because it is about 11' from the windless to the water etc.
We also pause and let the boat settle at 60' with a slight tug to help seat the 45lb CQR anchor and again at 90'. Then a good back down when finished.
Next we went out a got some yellow metal paint.. In a few days we will pull the chain back out and paint the places where we put the wire ties (a couple\few links with the yellow paint. That is just the top of the links.
Also we put a few new markings on the rode attached to the chain. We added a 10', 20' and 30' markings. That way once the chain is all out and we are in say 35' of water we know that the 30' rode marker is in the water will not let the splice hit bottom. This is all in theory but we anchor for 5-6 months every winter so we have gotten pretty good at it.
The Mantus Chain hook and bridle system ended up with a twisted SS eye in the splice.
To get the SS eye back around straight I first soaked it in really soapy water for a few days. Then I connected it to a piece of chain going around a cleat on the dock. From there it went under the stern port cleat and around the stern port winch. I winched it up tight.
Then I tried kicking the SS eye to get it to budge but that was a bad idea. I broke off the "Hook-Gate", the black piece of plastic for holding the chain in the hook. I do not see the chain coming out without it but we will replace it and get a spare.
We have 3\8 Acco chain.
These "Hook-Gates" are $4.00 USD each for the 3\8 size for our chain. Of course it is the shipping that gets you.
So then I decided to get surgical and brought out the glass hammer. That worked and we got the eye straight in the splice again. Now I will try to pound the SS eye completely closed and then whip the splice tight.
Personally if we buy a SS eye to be spliced we first have the eye closed and then welded shut.
Of course, I will take the SS eye off the shackle and hook before working on it now that it is straight.
Our Mantus Chain hook and bridle system measures a total of 23' long. From our bow cleat to the water is about 7'. So that leaves 16' in the water. A good length, the 23', because it gives a good point of pull from the bow cleat versus the bow roller. Also that much line enables the line (3\4 ") stretch, taking any shock load. Too short no stretch..
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