We finished sanding the cap rail with #220 sand paper, wet\dry.
This work we saved until we got to a marina because sealing the outside of the cap rail and applying the Sikkens Cetol Gloss Clear Coat to the cap rail and doing the taping would not be easy from on deck dinghy. This way we did some on deck but a lot from the dock.
We feathered in the bad spots on the cap rail (one shown above) as best we could. This one was from the line on the Edson Step when it was connected to the stanchions.
Debbie doing the taping on the inside of the cap rail. This time when we sealed the cap rail we did a bigger portion of the joint so this meant free handing with the brush was not going to work good with the Sikkens Cetol Gloss Clear Coat.
Getting the outside tapped.
Started the Sikkens Cetol Gloss Clear Coat.
Not bad. We had not touched the cap rail for a few years so it was needing a couple coats of Sikkens Cetol Gloss Clear Coat. Some places got damaged by fender lines or kayak or the side step and went to bare teak.
Debbie took off the Ocean Kayak Malibu Two racks
so they would not be in the way and polished them.
When adding the Schaefer spring line cleat on the port side we ran into some hidden screws and had to re-locate the chock. This left a couple of holes we needed to plug.
All plugged.
This big line does fine on the Schaefer 8" stern cleat but not so on the original 8" cleat installed by Islander Yachts. The old cleat makes the line dig into the cap rail.
Old cleat with 1\2 inch braided line on it so it will clear the cap rail.
So now the cap rail has been re-sealed on both sides
and two coats of Sikkens Cetol Gloss Clear Coat applied for the summer.
Not bad all-in-all.
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