Arrived without bolt - C2-107 POWER LED FLOODLIGHT BY IMTR

Our new C2-107 POWER LED FLOODLIGHT BY IMTRA came but did not come with the mounting bolt. This is the one that is made to hang upside down. We ordered the other.
 I called sailboatstuff.com/ (1-877-447-2457) and found out that the bolt is an optional item, which they did not know either.
 He was very nice and ordered it for me for half off and no shipping. On the IMTRA site or any site the bolt is not explained as optional.
 You can see the bolt in the picture on the box.

Drilled the spillover fan holes and PVC pipe hole! 2011

October 2012 Marina Kona Kai Shelter Island San Diego, CA

 We used our handy dandy 90 degree drill attachment to do this. 

How to make the refer spill over fan work - 2011

We got an answer from Andrew at Swedish Marine on our spill over questions.
We have a Frigoboat keel cooler system but this would work for most spillover systems.

What are the Correct Temperatures?

What Is the Correct Freezer Temperature?  

Most things that do not have high sugar content are frozen solid at about 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Ice Cream needs to be below about 5 degrees to be solid. The colder the freezer temperature, the longer the food can be stored.
Always use 0 degrees F as a goal. That leaves a good size safety margin. Most reach-in freezers are designed to go down below 5 degrees. Most walk-in freezers are designed to get well below 0 degrees. 

What is the Correct Refrigerator Temperature?

The United States Food and Drug Administration set the maximum refrigerator temperature at 41 Degrees Fahrenheit.
That temperature is the maximum for the actual product being refrigerated. This is often confused for the air temperature. The air temperature may fluctuate but the product temperature must remain at 41 or lower.
The colder the product, the longer it will last. That makes 38 Degrees a more optimum temperature. A unit set at 38 Degrees might come on at 38 Degrees and shut off at 35 Degrees. Temperatures below 35 Degrees require a forced defrost cycle. 

Cetal Marine Teak Natural and cap rail?

Here is the troller with some gloss coats on the Cetal Marine Natural Teak.

Original bilge pump hoses

We got the original bilge pump hoses configured with new hoses and strainer. We were about to install them on the pump and I forgot which hose barb on the pump is the intake. Will need to find that out and install the hose :)

Fresh water Pump not broken?

 We fixed the little leak going into the pump. We were going to re-plump the water tank connections but as it goes I lost one of the fittings we bought so I just fixed the leak and was done with it.
 The pump seems better but it is too early to tell if it is not cycling any more.

Cockpit grate got coat of Teak Wonder

We threw another coat of Teak Wonder on the cockpit grate as that will not get done for a while now with the marina move.

Bending the evaporator plate! - 2011

October 2011- Marina Kona Kai Shelter Island San Diego, CA

With Debbie's measurements we marked the first bend on the evaporator flat plate(EP).  

two 50' Solar Panel cables arrived - 2011

October 2011 - - At Marina Cortez Harbor Island, San Diego, CA

The two Kyocera Solar KD-135GX 135 Watt 12 Volt Solar Electric panel cables arrived.  Two 50’ – cut in half so four 25 footers. 

WRS01 Wireless 12 Volt DC Remote Switch.

Ordered the remote for turning on\off the flood light for dingy access. We figured it is worth the try out. This could be a good solution for turning on and odd the flood and or deck lights when arriving and departing in the dingy. Also this could be done from inside the boat if suspicious sounds are heard in the cockpit area. We would need just one switch, probably by the stern ladder and then we would use the remote most of the time.

WRS01 Wireless 12 Volt DC Remote Switch.


sailorssolutions.com

Freezer glassing\sanding done!

This is about the last time you will see the freezer un-painted. We sanded it last night and it is ready for paint. Tonight we plan on bending the evaporator plate to fit and paint the freezer with the two part epoxy paint. 

Debbie will do the honors.

Here you see where we will mount the two digital thermostats, one for the refer and one for the freezer. 

 The refer thermostat also controls the fan. These will get a plastic Home Depot electrical box in the back to prevent them from getting damaged from mugs and such.

Fresh water Pump not broken?

 We had a small water leak by the hot water heater (HWH) and I tried to fix it a couple times but failed. It was not a big deal with a drip an hour or so and we are replacing the HWH so I just left it. I did not consider it as leak. The other water pump did not cycle and the leak was there then. Of course the other pump failed so there. Lying in bed thinking about the water pump and it’s cycling I thought well we do have a leak. It is miner and of no significance but to be correct before sending the pump off for repair we should really fix it. So we dug into the leak and got it fixed and the water pump worked without cycling, for a while. Then the water pump started cycling later that evening. So back to the water lines for more leaks searching this evening. We are not doing any projects but for the refer till it is done. It needs to get done and it is our last major project of the dirty, hard to get at, time consuming, pain in the butt kind. All these little things we work on an hour at a time then go to work on the refer.

 Where the plastic container is there was minor a leak at the HWH by that blue tape

Vent hose for holding tank - not it

 While working on the water leaks we found the odor maker for the holding tank. It is either the hose connecting to the bronze elbow or the bronze elbow where it screws into the valve. We think it leaks when we macerate. We cleaned it up and the odor went away. We have gotten a plastic Dometic elbow and fitting so the hose will fit better and we can get two hose clamps on it. It is a project that is waiting for the refer to be finished. So I guess we will not macerate until the refer is done and this is fixed. At least we found it. It was the drop light that made this possible. I looked around a couple times but it is hard to see and kind of dark. We had the drop light looking for leaks and we saw a little around the fitting.

Freezer glassing done\top fitted - almost

 This week we had hoped to wrap up the fiber glassing. It turned out to be a bit delayed. We discovered a few sections of glass that were de-laminated. The resin did not adhere to the Dow Blue Board (DBB) insulation resulting in an air bubble between the insulation and the fiber glass. It could have been just ignored but it would not be correct. It is unknown what problems, if any, it could cause in say a year or two out cruising. We want it done right so we cut out about a 3 by 8 inch square, all three layers and cut out a couple small areas. Debbie filled the DBB that got chewed up with pulling out the glass with epoxy putty and then re-glassed the areas. Debbie also added the remainder of glass that we had hoped to get done on Saturday. Saturday was the day we had hoped to paint the freezer. Now it will be Tuesday.

 We also fit the temporary hatch cover on the refer side. It was just up a bit as suspected. We did notice after a day it was sinking. This means the seal is compressing. We have decided to router out the other refer cover and test it before proceeding. It could be they will compress the seal by just sitting on it and will be even with the counter top without any further cutting for depth. It is a wait and see thing.

We can taste the ice cream! 

Ordered C2-107 POWER LED FLOODLIGHT BY IMTRA

 We just ordered the C2-107 POWER LED FLOODLIGHT BY IMTRA for the stern flood light.  

We ordered it from:

sailboatstuff.com

It has the upright mount

The Hella LED Floodlight M70 may be another good choice we could make.
yachtlights.com

We are also considering the: 
WRS01 Wireless 12 Volt DC Remote Switch.
It is a remote like for a car alarm.
sailorssolutions.com


And then there is the out shut off:
EK01 Onboard 12V Shut-off Timer and Alarm 
sailorssolutions.com

 This light will make getting in and out of the dingy and working the davits and outboard motor lift a lot nicer at night. It will make things safer and could give us some theft protection. We plan on mounting it by the solar panels with a switch on the stern.

"The Imtra C2-107 LED Floodlight is an energy efficient, 4-LED floodlight that generates more than 300 lumens. Its compact size and round shape allow for flexible mounting of this high-output lamp. The UV resistant housing and sealed lens ensure a long life in harsh operating environments. This model may either be surface mounted or thru-bolted and is designed for upright positioning only"


Less Than 8.0W Power Consumption · Long Service Life · Solid State Circuitry · Integrated Drive Electronics · UV Resistant Polymer Housing · Sealed Watertight Polymeric Lens · PC Vacuum-Coated Reflector · Full Tilt and 360° Rotation · Easy 2-Wire Installation Made in USA

·  Finish: White

·  Housing Material: ABS/GF Nylon

·  Dimensions: 5.98" x 4.72" x 3.28" (153 x 120 x 83.4mm)

·  Voltage: 9-56VDC

·  Power Consumption: 8.5W

·  Kelvin Temperature (CCT): Cool White (6000-65,000K)

·  Luminous Flux: 342 Lumens

·  Beam Angle (FWHM): 30°

·  Protections: Reverse Polarity - 200V Spike Protection - Transient Protection

·  Weight: 1.75 lbs.

·  Part Number: ILC2-107 / ILC2-107HT

Sides of the solar panel mounting braced - 2011

October 2012 Marina Kona Kai Shelter Island San Diego, CA

 The bracing for the sides of the solar panel mounting were added. This has strengthened the structure and prevents any fore and aft movement. We are still toying with side mounts to the stern rail directly and up to the solar panel mounts.

Cetal teak Natural and cap rail?

 There is a trawler near us or at least on the same dock. We like the teak work they are doing. The teak looks bright and not yellow or orange ad is not dark. It looks clean and natural. The weekend the gentleman was there working on the teak. We asked him what he was using and how he prepped the teak. He said he:

Stripped the teak.

Cleaned - sanded

Cetal teak Natural – one coat

Cetal gloss - five coats

We think it looks good and we were not Cetal fans.

He is still working on this teak

Looks good and he has not added the gloss

Cap rail port side and stanchions

 We finished off the re-caulking of the port lower cap rail. Darn, hate doing re-work! It is just a case of learning on the fly. At any rate we cannot be too hard on ourselves and it is done and over for many a rainy day now. As it is it does not rain much here in San Diego and this boat was a SoCal boat and has not seen much wet weather so thing on board are dry and there is no rot. Now we can keep it that way.

Tools of the trade :) and caulking around a stanchion

 We think there may be a couple of stanchions leaking. They are too much work to re-bed at this time so we decide to clean them out real good and then put 3M 4000 UV around them and the screws. We did find a spot on one of the two we got bedded around the edges that was iffy for a leak but if I remember right it was not leaking. We will do all the stanchions in the lower side decks and the one by the stern cleat. Sometime in the future we may re-bed them while we are holed up for hurricane season some place or something like that. 

Removing tape as we go 

Needs some clean up

Looks good after the tape is removed

Last of the solar panel bimini hardware

OK the last of the bimini hardware has been purchased for the solar panel mounting.

These ends:

keystonbros.com/

8 - MH101SS - ends with eyes were purchased

1 - MH265SSD - was returned for replacement as it was defective

Router refer lid seals and router- test - 2011

Temporary seal around top will do a nice fit for real one

This is the lazarette opening with access to the refer.

 Today we hacked up one of the temporary refer lids for the seal. We routed the lid by .220 off each side (deep) . That is two hundred twenty thousandths of an inch which is almost a quarter of an inch (.225) . It may not be quite deep enough, but we wanted to error on the side of "take more off" not "it is too much off start over". The old saying "I cut it three times and it is still too short!"

Hardware for bracing the bimini solar panel mounting

We just parched these pieces of hardware for bracing the bimini solar panel mounting.

keystonbros.com/

4 - MH101SS

8 - MH265SSD

They are for bracing the SS mounting on top of the bimini.

Order two 50’ cables for the solar panels

 Well we had to order two 50’ cables for the solar panels on top of the bimini as Wind & Sea (solar-electric.com) did not have 40’ lengths. It is either 30’ or 50’. The we cut in half and use two for each panel (+ and -). That will take care of the last of the solar panel equipment. That is excluding the bimini mounting hard ware, we still need some of that.

 What we need are two 20' and two 25' but four 25' will work.

SHURFlo RV pump Serial # 5900-2010 OEM

We emailed customer_service@shurflo.com at Shurflo and got this response concerning our leaking pump (SHURFlo RV pump Serial # 5900-2010 OEM).

“I would recommend a drive assembly kit. The kit model 94-030-02 comes with the drive, the diaphragm and the metal assembly as one kit.

If it was pumping good that is the only part needed.

Let me know if you further questions,

Pedro Silva

Shurflo Customer Service”

So it looks like we will order the part and re-build the pump for a back up.

Shurflo part # 94-030-02 - Diaphragm Kit

pumpagents.com/

Original bilge pump intake hose\strainer - 2011

 The original bilge pup in now sitting in the spot it likes and needs to be plumbed. 

(Jabsco 36600 Series Bilge Pump 8 gpm) - (Jabsco bilge pump Model 6600)

SHURFlo Extreme™ Smart Sensor pump is cycling

OK our new SHURFlo Serial # 5901-2011 Extreme™ Smart Sensor 5.7 Fresh Water Pump 12 VDC is cycling about every 15 seconds at times and this is not something we want to have happen. This happens after it sits for a while like at night and it seems if we turn it off and then on, it resets. When it cycles it goes on every 15 seconds or so for 2 or 3 seconds then shuts off. Not a big deal but it will wear on the pump and it is defiantly not working properly if it is doing this.

This mostly happens at 

SHURFlo support said it could be some tiny debris in the head of the pump. SHURFlo support  said that we could try to take it apart and find it (the debris) or send it back for replacement. We will send it back as it is easier and less time consuming. We do have a filter screen in front of the pump to prevent this. The dam thing is brand new! This means we will need to bump up our re-building our old pump so it can serve as a replacement while this one gets shipped in.